Tricks ‘n Tips

·        “When I foil very small pieces, I end up with more foil than glass”

         (It doesn’t say anywhere in the bible that you can’t mix foil widths within a single composition. For tiny pieces, use the 3/16” or even the 5/32” foil.)

·        “When I attempt to cut thin pieces, they often break mid-way.”

          (Before you attempt to use your running-pliers, position the piece with the score between one thumb & forefinger. Also, on long cuts, apply just enough pressure with the pliers on one end until you sense it starting to split, then flip the piece over and start using the pliers at the opposite end of the score”)

·        “When I solder, I can’t seem to get out the bubbles.”

          (Generally, bubbles are caused from flux that is boiling. Use only the smallest amount of flux. We recommend viscous fluxes rather than the truly liquid type. Their application is easier to control.”

·        “How hard should I have to bear down on my cutter to score the glass?”

          (Most problems associated with scoring are related to the cutter tip           condition, rather than a function of pressure. Dull and poorly   lubricated cutters only produce poor results. Pressure increases are only required for cutting some of the more textured glasses, and then only to allow you to keep one your marker line”.

·        “What type of framing should I put on my piece?”.

          (That will depend largely on whether you intend to put it in a wooden frame, or merely hang it with metal framing in a window, etc. If you intend to use a wood frame, zinc or lead “Y” members are your best choice. For just general display, zinc adjustable “U” members w/ hanging loops are better.)

·        “I don’t own a glass grinder, do I really need one?”.

          (So long as you only do large simple pieces, no; but if you ever intend to do any quality work then the answer is either make “perfect” cuts every time, or buy a grinder”.

·        “When I patina my solder joints and zinc frame, the patina seems to wash off the zinc."

          (A patina is a patina is a patina, “Not!. Patinas are specific to the metal on which they are applied. Use solder patinas of solder, and zinc patinas for zinc!.)

·        “What is the best material to use to wash off my piece after it’s all soldered up?.”

          (Everyone has some sort of secret washing formula. We at J&K recommend common, inexpensive shampoo applied w/ a shoe polishing brush, (Kiwi.)

·        “After a while, my patined solder joints seem to “get white and dusty looking”, what can I do?.

         (After you thoroughly clean and polish the entire piece, use your finger to apply a thin coating of some “Carnuba” based auto paste wax to the solder joints only. Let it dry per directions, and the dusty look should stay away.)

·        “A neighbor has a piece that has some broken glasses, can I repair it for her?”

          (Unless you are extremely experienced in repair work, or just don’t like the neighbor to start with, leave the repair issues to an experienced shop such as J&K Design.)